Friday, June 29, 2012

Small ARF Build Part 2, Extreme Flight 48" MXS EXP

This next part is going to be a simple and straight forward one. I'll go over installing the aileron servos and setting up the pushrods along with installing the landing gear, wheels, and pants.

Before you install the servos, it's best to have some sort of servo tester or have your radio and Rx on hand to center your servos before installation. I use the G.T. Power Professional Servo tester to center mine.

You can also hookup your radio and Rx with a receiver battery pack. Either way, you want to get the servo centered with the tester at a PWM setting of 1500uS or with no trim or sub-trim with your radio. With the servo centered, install your arm at 90 degrees from the servo itself. If you have problems getting the arm exactly at a right-angle, then try rotating the arm 180 degrees and using it for the other aileron. My Savox servos had no problem.

Now you can install the servos into the wing. On this plane, make sure that the output shaft is positioned towards the trailing edge of the wing. A quick tip here would be to install the servo, and then remove it. To harden the balsa wood, place a drop of thin CA in the screw holes and let dry.

On most planes, there are some pieces of string run through the wing that you use to pull the servo leads through. However, on this model, there are none. I was worried at first, but after about 30 seconds I realized that the wing is small enough that you don't even need an extension to reach the root of the wing. It's quite easy to run the lead through the wing so you should have no problem here.

After the servos are installed, it's time to setup the ball links and the push rods. Here's a tip that for many will be common knowledge, but just in case, here it is. At this point, use some blue painter's tape to tape the ailerons even with the wing. This makes sure the ailerons are straight during setup. Similarly, use your servo tester or radio to keep the servo you're working on centered during this step.

Screw on the ball links and use trial and error to get the assembly the correct length with everything centered. Use the bolt with washer and nut on the other side of the control horn. Tighten everything and use either some blue loc-tite or medium CA on top of the nut to secure. Your ailerons are now setup!

The landing gear and wheels are rather straight forward. The instructions are great and I didn't have a problem tightening the axle while inside the pant. Since the instructions are so good for this step, I'm just going to quote them:

Place the wheel onto the axle and secure with a wheel collar. Place the threaded portion of the axle through the hole in the carbon gear and screw the lock nut onto the axle, but do not tighten completely. There is a slot pre-cut in the wheel pant to allow it to fit over the axle. Before installing the wheel pant place a drop of silicon based glue onto the wheel pant just above the pre-cut slot. This will prevent the wheel pant from rotating, but allow it to move in the case of a mishap which may help to prevent damage. Slide the wheel pant into position over the axle and tighten the nut on the axle, taking care to make sure the wheel pant is positioned properly.

 This ends part two of the build log! Thanks for checking it out!

Friday, June 22, 2012

West Michigan Parkflyers Mako Sea Plane

For episode #232 of the AllThingsThatFly Podcast, I interviewed John Van Baren who has designed a new plane for West Michigan Parkflyers. Since the plane is about to be listed on their site for sale, we figured we'd post these pictures here now so listeners can follow along with the interview.

Wing span – 32”
Length – 35”
Wing area 310 sq in
Weight - (without battery) – 13.5 oz      (with battery) – 18 to 22 oz
Center of gravity is 12 ¾” from tip of floats
Motor: 2212 – 1900 KV or 2212-2200 KV
Prop: 6X4E or 6X5E
Battery: 1500 mah to 2500 mah 11.1 V (2200mah is a good size with a 9min flight time)
Speed Control: 30 or 40 Amp

Thanks so much to John for coming on the show!